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Weekend in: Thessaloniki
Your guide to a short break in this hip city, blending rest and play
Words by James Williams
With its two universities, thriving music scene and passion for food, Greece’s lively second city, Thessaloniki, would have made Dionysus proud. Whether you’re fighting for space in the seafront clubs or tucking into plates of the spicy northern cuisine, were he around today, the Greek god of hedonism would definitely be raising a glass.
For the perfect urban crash pad, check in to Daios Hotel. This new boutique bolthole has designer touches throughout, from the high-quality linens, to the marble, stone and teak bathrooms. Grab a room overlooking the bustling seafront, or upgrade to their finest suite to enjoy an entire terrace all to yourself, with wide views of the Thermaic Gulf and the city’s landmark White Tower.
dinner
for two at Hotel Daios;
Aristotelous Street;
Once your bags are safely stashed away, soak up the early evening vibe by taking a traditional volta, or stroll, along main shopping drag Tsimiski. Follow this up with a leisurely kafe on comfy sofas at the buzzing coffee shops on Aristotelous Square. It’s a great place to check out the eye candy, but if you get bored of all the posing, head around the corner to funky Elvis bar. A cosy, bohemian lounge space which boasts some of the best local DJs.
A five-minute walk down to the port will take you to the Ladadika district, and rustic Zithos restaurant. Select a Boutari red wine, and tuck into a range of mezes from salty saganaki cheese to crushed fava beans in oil. For main courses, try their own recipe soutzoukakia, tender, spicy lamb burgers cooked with cumin and a hint of garlic.
Fena Fresh
The next day, start your retail experience at Fena Fresh. Housed in an art-deco former cinema, the Colette-style boutique is bathed in white and has four floors of cutting-edge fashion and accessories. Stock up on cool cosmetics, like the Red Water range, before whiling away the hours among the hundreds of shoe stores and fashion boutiques that line Tsimiski, Mitropoleos and Proxenou Koromila streets.
When you want to give your wallet a break, turn off Tsimiski and head up to the Modiano food market. This cavernous 1920s edifice is packed with stalls of fruit, vegetables and fresh fish, as well as a cluster of authentic and cheap ouzeris. Slip in for a quiet lunch at Ouzeri Bazayiazi. Order some no-nonsense grilled fish with lemon, horiatiki (village salad with feta) and meletzanasalata (crushed aubergine and yoghurt dip).
When you’ve regained your strength, spend the rest of the afternoon wandering up the narrow Ottoman-era streets to the old town, the only part to escape the great fire of 1917. Walk along by the ancient city walls, and visit the 5th-century Ossios David church. One of 11 UNESCO-listed churches in Thessaloniki, it also contains one of its most precious mosaics.
As the sun sets over the harbour, you’ll want to slip into something smart for dinner, and the veranda of seafood restaurant Hamodrakas, in the suburb of Kalamaria, is the ideal setting for a romantic meal. Overlooking the twinkling ships and a lighthouse, it serves up fresh shrimps, mussels and lobster, which you can pick live from the aquarium.
The seafront Nikis Avenue comes alive at night, so bar hop along this 1km stretch to clubbing favourites like Isalos and Thermaikos – expect cocktails, house and techno and a buzzing crowd. Around 1am, take a cab to the sprawling Mylos arts complex, and party all night at one of their renowned dance parties or rock gigs.
Sundays in Thessaloniki are a super-laid-back affair, so amble around the Photography and Cinema museums in the glorious old port buildings, and pop next door to celeb-favourite Kitchen for a Bloody Mary and Sunday brunch. Relax and unwind with the water lapping at your feet.
But your last stop should be a branch of pastry emporium Terkenlis. If you haven’t been tempted by their famous honey-soaked baklava so far, this is your last chance for a final slice of hedonism before heading home.
Little Black Book
Daios Hotel
(Nikis 59, +30 2310 250 200, www.daioshotels.com)
Elvis
(Nikis 21, +30 2310 227 905, www.elviswayout.gr)
Zithos
(Katouni 5, Ladadika, +30 2310 540 284, www.zithos.gr)
Fena Fresh
(8 Pavlou Mela, +30 2310 257 447, www.fenafresh.gr)
Ouzeri Bazayiazi
(Vas. Irakleiou 35, Modiano, +30 2310 279 006)
Hamodrakas
(M. Yagili 13, Kalamaria, +30 2310 447 943,
www.hamodrakas.gr)
Isalos
(Nikis 43)
Thermaikos
(Nikis 21, +30 2310 239 842, www.thermaikos.net)
Mylos
(Andreadou Yioryiou 56, +30 2310 551 983, www.mylos.gr)
Kitchen
(Warehouse B, Port, +30 2310 502 241)
Terkenlis
(Agia Sofia 77, +30 2310 244 876, www.terkenlis.gr)
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