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My Istanbul
Words by Catherine Quinn
The city that famously straddles two continents is adored by visitors – but it’s the locals who enjoy it every day. We talk to three of them about the place they call home.
Serkan Bozkurt
TV CHEF / TV KUCHÁR
Chef Serkan Bozkurt is a well-known face in Istanbul. Having exercised his culinary flair at the acclaimed local Supperclub and the Hilton ParkSA Istanbul, he has gone on to become one of Turkey’s most acclaimed celebrity chefs. But even with a huge array of culinary prizes under his belt, he still enjoys a meal in his native city.
“In Istanbul you can find many high quality restaurants; some traditional, some international, and some ethnic. Outside of Turkey people tend to think Turkish cuisine is just doner kebabs, but if you’re interested in local food, you can see very different elements to the cuisine. Try vegetables grilled with a little olive oil, or some of the great, simple seafood dishes you find in the restaurants along the river. What is really interesting, though, is modern Turkish cuisine, which makes new recipes from traditional Turkish ingredients.”
The Bosporus river at
night
Serkan sees Istanbul as a proverbial melting pot of ideas and culture. “You can learn something new everyday because the city includes very different ethnicities. With 12 million people now living in the city, outsiders might think it’s crowded, but if you live in Istanbul, you realise that it is a 24 hour city, so there’s plenty of space for all kinds of people.”
“For me, the best area is around the Bosporus, which is magical. No matter what type of social activity you are after, there is something for you to do here, and it doesn’t matter how much money you have either.”
Nurdogan Sengular
FOUNDER
“Istanbul is a really unique place, because on the one side you have Europe, and on the other Asia. Plus you have influences from Russia and the Middle East. A lot of different influences shape the city, making it very creative.”
With this in mind, Nurdogan’s artistic space aims to offer a supportive outlet for all forms of art native to Turkey and Istanbul. “About eleven years ago we decided we wanted to form something where all different types of people could find out about and enjoy Turkish arts,” explains Nurdogan.
In a slow but steady process, Les Arts Turcs’ tiny and well-concealed shop attracted increasing numbers of visitors from outside Istanbul, eager to find out about ‘real’ Turkish culture. “We have people who come here to find out about the whirling dervish, oil wrestling or Turkish art, which you don’t find in the touristy places in the city,” says Nurdogan. “People want to learn about Suficulture, too,” he says, “and Turkish music.”
So what are his favourite places to enjoy the local side of Istanbul life? “If you want to go out in Istanbul, it is an amazing city for nightlife. You have every kind of club, bar and restaurant. I like Galip Dede Caddesi (Istanbul’s central road in the Taksim area), which houses so many different bars.”
“My favourite area is the Sultanahmet,” he adds, referring to the scenic district that houses the city’s iconic mosques, as well as the Arts Turcs shop. “This is the old part of the city, and it’s beautiful.”
During his well-earned time off, Nurdogan escapes to nearby Princes’ Islands to soak up the local culture. “There are some five-star places there, but they don’t interest me,” he says. “I like to meet local people who have something to say.”
Mehmet Gureli
FOUNDER
“Istanbul is a magni?cent city,” says Mehmet Gureli, founder of contemporary carpet shop Ethnicom. “It’s a place where east meets west – and like any other big city, there are plenty of great places to eat and go out.”
And whilst Istanbul may be famous for its traditional rugs and carpets, the artisan wares of this young trader are very contemporary. Based in the city’s iconic Grand Bazaar, Mehmet Gureli started out like any other carpet shop, but soon found a niche.
“We source fabrics from all over the country and put them together to make very modern carpets,” he explains.
The Market Quarter
When it comes to places to go out in the city, however, Mehmet is more traditional in his tastes. “My favourite restaurant is a fish restaurant called Balikci Sabahattin which is in the old town near the blue mosque,” he says. “It’s a traditional place with a lot of charm and great, great food. They may not give you drinks in the fanciest glasses, but you’re here for the atmosphere.”
With a shop based in the historic Grand Bazaar, Mehmet also loves the market quarter, where several thousand years of commerce have combined to give him one of the world’s most vibrant thoroughfares to sell his wares.
In the more lively Taksim district near where he lives, Mehmet enjoys the more up-to-date Istanbul scene. “There are good cafes in Taksim”, he says, “Susfem Café, Smyrna Café and Porte Café are all great. For later at night, one of my favourites is Nu Teras – a fancy restaurant which turns into a good club at night. It’s classy, and good for meeting people.”
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